Discover how timber log cabins offer exceptional energy efficiency through natural insulation, airtight construction, and sustainable materials—ideal for eco-conscious living.
What about low maintenance log cabin? We’re all so busy nowadays. It seems like everywhere you turn there’s something to do. And that is why you should really consider a low maintenance log cabin.
Timber or cement board exterior?
All of our residential log cabins are double wall insulated constructions. Our standard log cabins have a 35 mm interior wall and a 45 mm exterior wall with 100 mm of insulation in between. Our low maintenance log cabins use the 45 mm wall and we put 100 mm of insulation outside that wall with a vapour barrier and an air gap before installing cement board on the outside of the building.
I hope the illustration below shines a bit of light on that.
Low maintenance log cabin benefits
A low maintenance log cabin offers numerous benefits, especially in today’s busy world. With our hectic schedules, it often feels like there is always something demanding our attention. That’s why investing in a low maintenance log cabin is a wise choice.
Benefit One: Cost
The initial cost of a log cabin with cement board on the outside is cheaper than a log cabin with timber on the outside. But you have to get your builder to skim the final building, and that is going to make your low maintenance cabin a little bit more expensive. Of course, you will make up the difference quite quickly because the cost of Sikkens wood stain is higher than the cost of a standard exterior paint. So, after your second time staining the exterior of your cabin you have broke even. And hat back-of-the-mind Whisper that keeps reminding you that you have to stain the log cabin is gone.
Benefit Two: peace of mind
Peace of Mind is important to us all. And with a cement board exterior on your log cabin, the added onus of regular maintenance every four years is removed. You could leave your cement board log cabin untouched for 20 years and not be worried. It would look terrible! But it would be fine as a structure.
Admittedly, a cement board exterior might not be to everyone’s taste. The timber exterior on a log cabin exudes charm and is definitely a big reason for people buying log cabins. But the practicality of a cement board exterior outdoors the looks of a timber exterior for a certain buyer. If you are that buyer, talk to us today.
Exploring the Efficiency of Electric Heating in Log Cabins
Introduction
Electric heating systems have gained popularity in log cabins due to their efficiency and effectiveness in providing warmth. With their ability to quickly and evenly distribute heat, electric heaters offer a reliable solution for heating log cabins. This study aims to further investigate the efficiency of electric heating in log cabins, examining factors such as energy consumption and cost-effectiveness. By analyzing these aspects, we can gain valuable insights into the potential benefits and drawbacks of utilizing electric heating systems in log cabins.
The importance of efficient heating in log cabins
Efficient heating in log cabins is crucial for ensuring comfortable living conditions, especially during colder seasons. Proper heating not only provides warmth but also helps maintain stable indoor temperatures, preventing issues such as condensation and mold growth. Additionally, efficient heating can contribute to energy savings and reduced utility costs, making it an important consideration for log cabin owners.
Electric heating in log cabins offers several advantages. Firstly, it is a clean and environmentally-friendly heating option as it does not produce any emissions or pollutants. Secondly, electric heating systems are highly efficient, providing instant heat and precise temperature control. Additionally, electric heating is relatively easy to install and maintain, with no need for fuel storage or chimney cleaning. Lastly, electric heating can be cost-effective in the long run, as it eliminates the need for constant fuel purchases and can be integrated with smart home technology for optimized energy usage.
Advantages of electric heating in log cabins
Electric heating in log cabins offers several advantages. Firstly, it is a clean and environmentally-friendly heating option as it does not produce any emissions or pollutants. Secondly, electric heating systems are highly efficient, providing instant heat and precise temperature control. Additionally, electric heating is relatively easy to install and maintain, with no need for fuel storage or chimney cleaning. Lastly, electric heating can be cost-effective in the long run, as it eliminates the need for constant fuel purchases and can be integrated with smart home technology for optimized energy usage.
When considering the environment, electric heating in log cabins is a favorable choice. This heating option produces no emissions or pollutants, making it a clean and eco-friendly solution. It helps minimize the carbon footprint and contributes to a healthier environment.
Considerations for Electric Heating in Log Cabins
Choosing the right electric heating system
Choosing the right electric heating system for your log cabin is crucial to ensure optimal comfort and efficiency. There are several factors to consider, such as the size of your cabin, insulation levels, and desired temperature settings. It is important to select a system that is appropriately sized to meet your heating needs while maximizing energy efficiency. Additionally, considering features like programmable thermostats and zoning capabilities can help further optimize energy usage and provide customized heating solutions for different areas of your cabin.
Understanding electricity requirements
Understanding the electricity requirements for your log cabin’s electric heating system is essential for proper installation and operation. You need to assess the electrical capacity of your cabin to ensure it can handle the power demands of the heating system. This includes considering the existing electrical infrastructure, such as the main electrical panel and available circuits. Consulting with a professional electrician can help determine if any upgrades or modifications are needed to support the heating system’s electrical requirements. It is crucial to ensure safety and compliance with electrical codes and regulations during installation and usage.
Optimizing energy efficiency
Optimizing energy efficiency in your log cabin’s electric heating system is crucial for reducing energy consumption and lowering utility costs. Implementing proper insulation measures, such as sealing air leaks and adding insulation to walls and attics, can minimize heat loss and maximize the effectiveness of the heating system. Additionally, regular maintenance and cleaning of the heating equipment, such as replacing air filters and checking for any malfunctions, can ensure optimal performance and energy efficiency. Programming the thermostat to adjust temperatures based on occupancy and utilizing timers to control heating schedules can further enhance energy savings. Considering renewable energy sources, like solar panels, can also contribute to a more sustainable and efficient heating system for your log cabin.
When buying a cabin, the levels and quality of log cabin insulation are very important. In fact, the very first thing you should look at when buying a log cabin is the whether or not the walls have a cavity. Some companies offer single wall cabins built with 75mm or 90mm timbers, but with NO insulation. Do not buy a cabin like this, if you intend to live and sleep in it. These walls do not provide sufficient insulation, AND there will be serious dampness problems behind presses and fittings.
What Log Cabin Insulation is included in a standard log cabin
At Timber Living, all our log cabins come with a 100mm wall cavity as standard. (This cavity can be increased to 150mm or even 200mm if requested).
Within this cavity, we use a product called METAC, which is very much like standard rockwool, but has an improved u-value, or insulation quality. We also use 100mm METAC in our roof cavities. With 100mm of METAC insulation, we gat a u-value of 0.19 W/m2K.
In the floor we use 50mm PIR (most people know this as Kingspan insulation), which gives us a u-value of 0.44 W/m2K.
Insulation in our timberframe models
We have developed a timber-frame mode of building, for customers who are going for planning permission You can see all of our timber-frame houses here. We can build to any design if these models are not what you are looking for. Just ask at any of our showrooms.
As you can see from the image below, there is a much higher level of insulation in the timber frame model. Building regulations have been changed over the last two decades with the aim of reducing greenhouse gas emissions from the residential sector.
External Walls U-Values (typical buld up and min requirement for A3-A2 rating)
Item
Resistance
(m2K/W)
External Surface Values
0.05
Ext Render on Cement Board
0.04
100mm Ext Insulation (EPS)
2.85
45mm Timber Structure
0.35
150mm Metac Insulation (in 150mm timberframe)
4.4
52.5mm Insulated Board
1.9
Internal Surface
0.1
Total Resistance (m2K/W)
9.69
U-Value (W/m2K)
0.1
Internal Walls
100mm ROLL ACOUSTIC INSULATION (in 100mm Timber frame)
Roof & Ceiling
Roof Ceiling U-Values (typical buld up and min requirement for A3-A2 rating)
Resistance (m2K/W)
Metal Profile Tile Effect
0.05
Cavity Attic Space
0.17
400mm Earthwool Insulation
9.09
12.5mm Internal Plasterboard
0.06
Internal Surface
0.1
Total Resistance (m2K/W)
9.47
U-Value (W/m2K)
0.11
PVC Colour Windows & External Doors
U value for PVC doors U = 1.42 W/m²K
U value for PVC windows U = 1.3 W/m²K
Delivery & Build on pre-prepared foundation base.
Construction and U-Value Certs
Project does not include:
Base and finished floors
Substructure Ground Floor U-Values (typical buld up and min requirement for A3-A2 rating)
Resistance (m2K/W)
Ground Values
0.05
150mm PIR Insulation
6.8
150mm Concrete Slab
0.07
22mm Timber Flooring
0.17
Internal Surface Values
0.15
Total Resistance (m2K/W)
7.24
U-Value (W/m2K)
0.14
Understanding the concept of U-values in building materials
U-values play a crucial role in understanding the thermal efficiency of building materials. The U-value, also known as the heat transfer coefficient or thermal transmittance, measures the rate at which heat is transferred through a particular section of construction. It is calculated by finding the reciprocal of the sum of the thermal resistances of each material that makes up the building element. The U-value is expressed in watts per square meter per kelvin (W/(m²K)). In simpler terms, it represents the amount of heat that is lost through a square meter of the material for every degree difference in temperature.
The importance of U-values in building energy efficiency cannot be overstated. As energy prices continue to rise and sustainability becomes a greater concern, U-values have become a key performance measure for buildings. Lower U-values indicate better insulation and less heat loss, resulting in improved energy efficiency. By understanding and measuring U-values, we can make informed decisions about building materials and design to enhance the sustainability and performance of our buildings. This, in turn, can lead to reduced energy consumption and lower carbon emissions
Several factors influence the U-values of building materials. The thermal conductivity of a material, represented by the lambda (λ) or k-value, determines how easily heat can pass through it. Materials with lower thermal conductivity have lower U-values and provide better insulation. The thickness of the material also affects the U-value, with thicker materials offering higher resistance to heat transfer. Additionally, the presence of air gaps, insulation layers, and the overall design and construction of the building element can impact the U-value. By considering these factors and selecting materials with lower U-values, architects and builders can create more energy-efficient and sustainable structures.
Your choice of log cabin window type (pvc or timber) is important and, as with most decisions, it boils down to three things: price, convenience and taste. Lets take a look in a little more detail.
PVC or Timber Windows and doors?
The choice between PVC and timber windows depends on your needs and preferences. Here are some factors to consider:
Cost: with Timber Living, there is no difference in cost between white PVC and timber log cabin windows. If you are considering coloured PVC windows, the cost goes up, but minimally (approxiamtely €400 for a two bed log cabin. Ask one of our representatives if you’re thinking of coloured PVC windows.) Maintenance: PVC windows are easier to maintain than timber windows, which require treatment every three or four years. Durability: Timber windows can last a long time if maintained well. Our PVC windows come from Weatherglaze, so you can be very happy with their reputation on the Irish market. Appearance: Timber windows have a natural and classic look that suit our log cabins better than PVC windows, particularly with the cross mullions. But they are not to everyone’s taste. Go with your own style is what we always say! And of course, PVC windows are available in a variety of colours.
All of our log cabin exterior windows and doors are double-glazed. And double-glazing gives a number of benefits to your log cabin.
Insulation: Double-glazing helps insulate your log cabin from heat loss. This is the first thing everyone thinks about when they think of double glazing. But there are other benefits too:
Noise reduction. A well-built double glazed window will provide a lot of quality noise reduction too! Just open your window and notince the increase in ambient noise. There you go!
Increased security: A quality double-glazed window or door is a good deterrent for any would-be burglar. All of our external doors come with five point locking as standard. And you can feel the quality of all of our log cabin windows and doors at any of our showrooms.
Weatherglaze provide us with very high quality external log cabin windows and doors. If you visit any of our show houses and try the door and window handles on the NILA garden cabin, you will immediately get the sense of quality and strength intrinsic in these quality items.
Coupled with the build quality of these windows and doors, you will also be glad to hear that Weatherglaze windows have an extra special coating on their glass to improve the energy efficiency, out-performing standard glass by more than 50% – just one more element of a timber living log cabin that goes towards reducing your heating bills.
The energy efficiency of the window is also increased by reducing eat loss at the window edges, making the glass 3-4°C warmer, AND cutting
condensation by up to 80%. The use of high performance gaskets reduces noise pollution, too.
When you come to visit us at our show houses, be sure to try the different windows and doors on display. You will be able to feel the quality of the hardware in the door handles and hinges. Ask our representatives about the different types of materials, finishes and maintenance required, and you’ll easily be able to make a clear decision on your choice of window type for your log cabin.
A burning wood stove is a beautiful thing: warmth and comfort in the cosy surroundings of a log cabin.
It’s a common question: can I put a stove into my log cabin? And we’re delighted to tell you that the answer is yes!
You can install any type of stove into your log cabin: wood burning, wood pellet stove, natural gas stove – even an oil burning range. Whatever stove you decide to install in your log cabin, you can see from the video that making an opening in the roof of your log cabin is a straightforward operation.
Any experienced fitter will be able to install your stove in your log house in 3 or 4 hours. it is important that you use a double skin flue when going through the roof section of the cabin. it is also very important to have a heat shield fire screen behind the stove so that the heat cannot discolour your timber walls. You can get specific fireboard, imitation stone effect tiles, and many other alternatives to install behind your stove.
It ia very important to follow all of the guidelines when fitting your stove, and to use an experienced fitter. When we fitted the stove in the Boyle showhouse, there were detailed instructions with the stove relating to minimum flue length, flue bore, distance from surrounding walls, flue draught etc. There’s quite a lot to fitting the stove correctly so that there is no risk or hazard, and also that you have a good draught when the stove is burning.
We asked Adrian Hunt of AJ Installers (086 441 2269) to fit the stove in the Boyle shwhouse, and we were very impressed with the care and detail with which he completd the installation. He spent a lot of time squaring off our wood-buring stove, and thats not easy, since the base is oval!
Can I put a back boiler on my log cabin stove?
Because our cabins have cavity walls, it is very straightforward for your plumber to run a back boiler off your stove too. as in any house, what’s your stove is operating, you can run radiators off the back boiler full stop it is important to size the boiler and Stove correctly for the heat requirement of your log cabin full stop your heat requirement will depend on the level of insulation in your cabin. Again, any competent installer will be able to size your stove and boiler for you.
Gas Stove in your Log Cabin?
A balanced flue gas stove is an interesting option for a log cabin. The beauty of a gas stove is that you can fit a horizontal flue, going out the wall, and there is no need for it to go above the roof of the cabin. There are many benefits to this, particluarly the cost, since stove flues are quite expensive per metre. Of course, the cost of the stove itself will probably be more expensive, so at the end of the day, overall costs might be quite similiar. Fuel costs will vary hugely, depending on whether you’re using turf, coal or wood in your solid fuel stove, compared with gas. Butthere is the adde cleanliness of a gas stove, and the fact that there’s no need for regular cleaning out of ash, which is always a consideration.
Do you have any questions about stoves in your log cabin?
whether you are looking for a recommended fitter, or recommended stove please do not hesitate to contact us to ask about stove installation in your log cabin. we are always happy to help and advise on any aspects of log cabins.
Energy efficiency in your log cabin home is something we are all interested in, whether it’s for environmental reasons, or simply to save money. The better insulated your log cabin is, the less heat you need to keep yourself warm.
Log Cabin Insulation
Timber living log cabins are very easy and cheap to heat. From an energy efficiency point of view they are top notch. Our standard log cabin insulation levels maintain a nice warmth within our cabins during the winter, and actually help to keep them cool during the summer. It is remarkable how cool your cabin will be in the summer even with the dark roof cover. That’s because we provide, as standard, 100mm Kingspan Insulation in our roofs. We also, as standard, include 100mm insulation in the walls.
Floor insulation – take note
And it is very, very important to use kingspan Insulation in the floor as well. Some companies offer rock-wool in the floors: this is always, always a mistake. Do not buy a cabin with rock-wool insulation in the floor.
Putting your rock-wool insulation in the floor, on top of a concrete slab (even though there is a damp proof course in between) is a huge mistake. In the winter months, when the slab is colder than 4 degrees centigrade, the damp winter air condenses on the cold surface of the slab, and on the top of the damp proof membrane. The rock-wool insulation soaks up this dampness like a sponge!
This creates a number of problems:
Your insulation is wet, and doesn’t insulate any more.
The gathering moisture in the insulation can lead to rotting of your floorboards
Your interior floor is going to be very cold, and will draw heat out of your living area.
Unhealthy moulds can start to grow on both the underside AND interior face of your floor!
Log Cabin Airtightness
Of course, insulation is not the only element to be considered when discussing log cabin heat. We also need to consider air tightness. There is no point in insulating to the max and then leaving the window open! I am not suggesting you would leave a window open, but if your cabin is not reasonably airtight, then you might have the equivalent of an open window when you add up all of the draughts in your cabin.
We carried out a blow door test on the log cabin in Boyle and found that the cabin was well within building standards for air tightness, by a factor of 40%, which is very reassuring.
Log Cabin Insulation upgrades
Of course, we can increase your insulation levels if you wish. If you’re going for planning, you will need To increase your insulation to upto 8-in or 200mm in the walls, floors and roof. We also improve the air tightness of the log cabin building.
There are many different ways to increase insulation. The walls are the obvious place to start. Here is a list of different options for increasing insulation in log cabin walls:
Increase the cavity. We can always increase the cavity size to eight inches (two hundred millimetres).
Insulation Material. Also, the material you use to insulate within the walls is a factor. We have upgraded our default wall insulation – we are now using Metac which is a high performance quality thermal insulation roll which has a higher better U Value than standard rock-wool insulation.
External Insulation: This solution is often insisted upon by planners, who, depending on the area, want buildings to have a rendered exterior finish in place of the horizontal drop log exterior which is our default.
Dry lining. Dry lining the interior of your cabin to increase the overall insulating value of the walls is another obvious solution, but of course, you loose the interior timber walls. This is not a problem for everyone, and is down to personal choice.
What about the floor insulation? One alternative for the floor is to use Quinn Lite thermal blocks to insulate the slab. Quinn Lite blocks are Thermal AAC Blocks designed for thermal excellence and ease of construction.
Either way, we can give your new log cabin home an A2 BER without any problem.
Log cabins are cheap to heat
Once your residential log cabin home has been well insulated, it is going to be as easy to heat (or easier) that any other type of building. (Are Log Cabins Easy to Heat Blog entry) The function of any buildings envelope (walls floor and roof) is to keep in the heat, keep out the rain, wind and cold. a log cabin envelope is exceptionally good at this, as long as there is sufficient insulating value in the Fabric of the envelope, and that the envelope is relatively airtight. Timberliving log cabins fulfill all of these requirements. So, whether you’re looking for a one bed log cabin, a 2 bed log house, a 3-bed timber home, or a bespoke design log cabin, you should make your first point of call one of our timber living show houses.
Timber Living Log Cabin show houses
We have show houses in Boyle, County Roscommon (086 817 0429), Carrigaline Co Cork (087 6464 280) and Tullow, Co Carlow. Please don’t hesitate to call us straightaway to organise a visit.
It’s the cosiness, the warmth and comfort, that is the enduring image of a log cabin. But the big question is, how true is the image? Are they really that warm and comfortable? And how much does it cost to keep them warm?
Cozy, comfortable log cabins
Are log cabins warm?
Log cabins can be wonderfully arm and cozy, and reasonably cheap to heat. It is all about how the log cabin is constructed.
Like any building, the insulating value of the walls, roof and floors decide how warm the building will be, and how easy it is to heat. Think about it – if you’re lying in bed on a cold winter’s morning with only a sheet covering you, you’re going to be cold no matter what the sheet is made of.
So, in your log cabin, you need a wall thickness of more than 6 inches (150 millimetres) if you want a log cabin that is warm and coy in the winter months.
Some companies offer log cabins with only a 3 inch (75 millimetre) thick timber wall, and if you by one of these, you’re going to have a cold, cold log cabin. Brrrrr! (You will also have a damp log cabin, with black spots on the walls and quite possibly water coming through. So don’t buy a cabin with 3 inch thick walls.)
What are the best log cabin walls
Interior of log cabin construction showing wall and floor insulation
Are log cabins easy to heat?
At Timberliving, we offer double Leaf walls. Our standard build is a 45mm outside wall with 100mm cavity and a 30mm inside wall. This gives you plenty of insulation, as well as a very strong internal wall from which you can hang kitchen presses and anything else of significant weight.
Do log cabins need to be insulated?
You could easily argue that you do not need to have insulation in your log cabin walls, but that would be true only if your log cabin walls are solid wood and a minimum of 8 inches (200 millimetres) thickness. But this class of a log home is very expensive to buy and build.
If you’re planning on using your log cabin for sleeping in, especially during the winter, you will need to insulate your walls. We build our cabins with a standard four inch (100 millimetre) cavity, and use a product called METAC, which is a high grade, quality thermal insulation, as insulation within the cavity.
And the wall insulation does more than just help keep the heat in. Wall insulation also ensures that there is no mould within the cabin itself. If your cabin is built without wall insulation, and is being regularly heated on very cold winter nights, you can expect mould, in certain situations. Mould is generated when moist, warm air touches cold surfaces and condenses. Take a situation in a single wall, uninsulated cabin, with (say) outside temperatures of 2 degrees, and a stove heating the cabin inside. The surfaces of the walls will be warm, EXCEPT behind wardrobes and presses, because it will be difficult for the warmth to get behind these fittings. So, you will have damp air connecting with these cold surfaces. The dampness in this air condenses on the cold surfaces, encouraging the growth of mould. NOT a pretty picture…
Increasing your log cabin insulation levels
If you are going for planning, you will need greater insulation in the walls and roof of your cabin. Wall insulation thickness can be increased either by increasing the size of the cavity, or using external insulation full stop this has the benefit, from a planning point of view, you of having a cement board finish, which is often a requirement of planning applications.
Log cabin wall thickness and noise proofing
One of the benefits of our double Leaf walls is the noise insulation they provide. Come to one of our showrooms and here for yourself how quiet it is inside a timber living log cabin. Whether you are looking for a residential log cabin , a granny flat one bedroom log cabin, or if you have your own bespoke design log cabin we can provide you with the insulation levels you require.
Are log cabins easy to heat?
Of course, if you have a well insulated log cabin, there will be a smaller heat requirement. And the smaller the heat requirement, the easier, and CHEAPER! it will be to heat. And that means a number of benefits to you, the user. The ongoing savings made with less fuel buying is great, but it also means that the hardware you buy will be cheaper too. A smaller stove, for instance, is going to cost a lot less than a stove twice its size. You can expect a few hundred euro on your hardware cost if your cabin is well insulated. And then there’s the fuel handling, especially if you’re using a solid fuel stove or boiler. That means carrying is and less ashing out too!
What heating system can I use in my log cabin
You can use any form of heating system in your log cabin: solid fuel, wood pellet, back boiler with rads, oil or gas, or even heat pumps and/or underfloor heating. Whatever heating system you use, your heating requirement and bills will be very much reduced as you increase your insulation. We have a blog post about heating your log cabin – take a read here: Heating a Log Cabin
Why not come and visit us at our showrooms in Boyle (086 817 0429), Tullow (05991 81039) or Carrigaline (087 6464 280) and see for yourself the quality of our log cabins.
it’s a picture most of us dream of – sitting in a comfortable sofa, by a log burner, in a stylish log cabin home. But are log cabins easy to heat? Like any building, as long as they are well built, well insulated and draught proof, you should have no problem heating your new log cabin.
Is a log cabin easy to heat?
Log cabins, built of quality timber and well insulated, are very very cheap to heat. That is as long as they are well built, with quality windows, doors and insulation.
If you think about it, there is only one key difference between heating a block built house and heating a log cabin. In both cases, you have an interior space that has to be heated. In both cases, you have a floor, walls, windows, doors and a roof that create the building envellope. So really, if the insulation levels and the draught proofing are the same in both buildings, you could imagine that the same amount of heat is required to heat the space within.
Are Log Cabins easier to heat than block buildings?
The main difference between the two types of building – log cabin and block built – is the timber surface on the interior cabin. Think about the amount of heat that a block and plaster wall requires in order to heat it up, and how long those walls will be drawing heat out of the room, while the equivalent timber walls are actually acting as an insulator, and doing nothing to keep the room chilled!
Log Cabin Heating Systems
The picture above shows a very cosy scene – actually, this is the log cabin showhouse in Boyle – the Limerick Log Cabin – with its wood burning stove. But of course you do not have to use a solid fuel stove to heat your log cabin. You can heat a log cabin in the same way as you would heat a conventionally built house. So yes, you can use a log burner or solid fuel stove. You can put a back boiler onto it, no problem. You can use a natural gas stove or boiler. And of course you can use an oil boiler – why not?
There are a lot of options nowadays with electrical heaters – wall panel, radiant, with all sorts of timers and heat sensors built-in. And if you want to be very daring, you can put in underfloor heating. Why not have an air to air heat exchanger built in? All of these options are endlessly possible.
Single or double wall in your log cabin?
This is a very important question, if you’re planning to buy a log cabin. Single walls, which are available on the market from 40mm up to about 90mm, are ALWAYS insufficient if you’re using your log cabin for residentioal purposes. This is because if you are heating your cabin regularly on colder winter nights, the temperature of the cold damp air will be too low, and the wall thickness is not great enough to insulate your cabin. In other words, the interior of your wall will be chilled be the cold exterior. Why is this important, you may ask. Typically what happens with a single wall cabin at night, if you’re heating the interior on those nights, is that you will feel warm in your cabin. BUT, the covered wall areas, behind presses, wardrobes, pictures etc, will not be warmed by the heating in the log cabin, because the warm air won’t readily circulated behind these fittings. So, the air that is behind these fixtures remains cold, and, as the walls cool due to the low exterior temperatures, the moisture in the air will condense, and this is how mould forms. The unfortunate thing is that this only happens on hidden surfaces, and it is usually not noticed for a long time, when so much damage is done that it is too let to remedy the situation.
Double glazed windows and doors
There is no doubt that double glazed windows are an important element in keeping your log cabin warm and easy to heat. Make sure the windows supplied in your log cabin are up to European Union specifications. At Timber Livng, wer offer a number of different window choices. Read the Blog Post here: Which windows for your log cabin?
South facing for solar gain
Remember when siting your log cabin, that there’s lots of free heat available from the sun, as long as you orientate you log cabin correctly, so that the biggest windows are facing south or south west. Solar gain is a major contributor to reducing cabin heating costs, and its very easy to get this right. Sometimes, you might be unlucky enough to have a stunning view to the north of your building, and you plan to have your main windows facing that direction – but generally, where possible, you should face your cabin southwards.
If you’re looking at planning your heating for your log cabin, it would make a lot of sense come to one of our TimberLiving showhouses in Boyle, Tullow or Carrigaline to have a chat with our ever-helpful sales crew. They would be only delighted to help you with your decisions.
Log cabins look cosy and cute and warm. They have so many endearing qualities. They look so inviting: you just want to go in there and sit down by the stove and relax. But do they stay warm for long?
A stove is the perfect addition to a log cabin
Easy and cheap to heat
You want a warm, cosy log cabin.
At timber living, all of our residential log cabins are very well insulated. We are very proud of the high quality of build of our log cabins. We use only the best materials, and that makes our log cabins reliable, durable and warm.
There are two factors that ensure that a building is
As long as a building has sufficient insulation and is well draught-proofed, heating should not be a major issue. The major difference between a log cabin and a block built building is that the blocks used tend to draw heat out of the rooms, and in effect, they need to be heated sufficiently before the room really feels warm. These cold surfaces will make the room feel cold until they are warmed up themselves. You do not have this issue with timber walls, floors and ceilings.
Our log cabin walls are one hundred and seventy five millimetres thick (seven inches). Of that 157mm, you have a 45mm outside timber, a 100 mm cavity and a 30mm inside timber. The outside and inside timber walls also add to the insulating value of the walls. This all means that a log cabin is going to heat up a lot quicker than a block building, its going to feel warmer sooner than a block building, its going to be cheaper to heat and its going to retain its heat longer.
In the showhouse in Boyle, we generally heat the stove until about four in the afternoon on a Saturday. When we go into the showhouse on the following Sunday morning, the temperature is usually a reasonable 12-14 degrees, even though it is 3 degrees outside.
What insulation does my log cabin need?
Our standard insulation levels are 100mm of kingspan insulation in the roof, and 100mm of Metac insulation in the walls, along with 50mm of kingspan insulation in the floor of your log cabin. While building regulations look for higher levels of insulation in all new buildings, we find that our customers have been happy with these standard levels of insulation ever since we started building log cabins in Ireland, over twenty years ago.
That being said, it is not a problem for us at Timber Living to increase the level of insulation in your log cabin, if that is what you require. Increasingly, people are looking for an increase in the wall, floor and roof insulation. This can be done easily, just by increasing the size of the cavity in the walls, and the roof and floor joist sizes too.
Increasing the size of the cavities and joist sizes in your log cabin will put up the overall cost. But there are other ways to increase the insulation – you could put extra insulation either on the interior walls of your cabin, using cosyboard or a combination of plasterboard and insulation, or you could put external insulation , fixed directly to the external log cabin timbers, on the outside of your log cabin.
The simplest way to increase the insulation in your floor is to build an insulated slab, with load-bearing insulating blocks, such as Quinn Lite.
Is Rockwool okay as floor insulation?
There are many new companies selling log cabins in Ireland, and it is natural that they are bound to make mistakes as they learn the intricacies of building log cabins in Ireland. One of the most common errors made by these companies (and one of the most costly to their customers) is the fact that they offer rockwool as a suitable floor insulation. ROCKWOOL IS NOT A SUITABLE FLOOR INSULATION!
I would advise that the first question you ask any log cabin company you are talking to is “what floor insulation do you use?” If they say rockwool or mineral wool, I would suggest that you walk away. The floor insulation is placed on top of a concrete slab, which naturally, gets very cold in Winter. Once the temperature gets below about four degrees, the moisture in the air in Ireland will stat to condense onto cold surfaces (as we all know too well!) So, with a cold slab on a cold winter’s day, you are bound to get dampness. The rock wool will soak up this dampness like a sponge, and loose its insulation qualities. It will also make your rooms cold and introduce dampness to the floor and wall timbers.
We use Polyisocyanurate (PIR) insulation in our buildings to avoid this damp ingress occurring. Polyisocyanurate (PIR) is one of the most efficient insulation material used in construction. Read more about it here.
Are log cabins warm in the winter?
Our walls are double leaf, cavity walls. Our standard cavity is 100mm and that can be increased if necessary, for planning purposes. In those cavities we make sure that we have the best available insulation. We use foil-backed PIR insulation, commonly known as kingspan insulation, in the roofs and floor spaces. This is a very durable, high-quality product that will last certainly the duration of your log cabin. Our windows and doors are very durable, double-glazed units, which will easily keep out Winter winds. All windows are tilt-and-turn, our external doors are five-point locking, and our internal doors all have gaskets (believe it or not) to keep the heat in.
Well-insulated log cabins
Whether you are building a single storey or a two storey log cabin, and no matter how many bedrooms is in your log house, we can assure you that your new home will be very cosy, warm and easy and cheap to heat.
You will see from our website that we offer a huge range of log cabins:
If you are interested in a quality log cabin, log house or timber home you should contact us at Timber Living.
Timber Living Log Cabin Showhouses in Tullow, Boyle and Carrigaline
We have show houses in Tullow, Boyle and Carrigaline. Please feel free to contact us now to make an appointment and come visit us.
A Log Cabin is a great investment – very cost-effective, quick to build, easy to heat and environmentally friendly (what other building construction type has a lower carbon footprint!). And, at TimberLiving we have such a wide range of cabins, from small one-bedroomed to BIG three-bedroom log cabins, so you can be sure you will get exactly what you’re looking for. And they look SO good once they’re built!
You may be considering the purchase of a log cabin but someone has put you off by highlighting some of the following myths. But don’t be put off – maintenance is a lot easier than you might think.
Beautiful, low-maintenance Log Cabin Exterior
Log cabin maintenance often gets talked about as a potential drawback compared to building a house from other materials. You will be surprised to find however that on balance, a log home will cost you a lot less in the long run. Wood is a remarkable material, and once it is treated well, it will last a lifetime. (They build boats out of wood, after all, and have done so for millennia. As long as the wood is treated properly, it will last and last.) Most of the ill-informed myths you hear about log cabin maintenance stem from stories where cabins have been badly built, badly treated or poorly maintained. Any of the following myths are as much down to people not looking after their wood properly as to anything bad about building a timber house.
Myth 1. Prepare yourself for a lot of maintenance work
If you build your house and follow the recommendations of any of our staff at Timber Living Log Cabins, then you can reduce any maintenance potential issues significantly. The exterior needs to be treated only every three to four years – just like any house!
Myth 2. Log homes attract mould
This myth is actually true in some cases. We have seen cabins with a lot of extensive mould, and you will definitely get mould in your log cabin if it is incorrectly built. Your log cabin needs a cavity wall and some decent insulation. (We offer 100mm cavities, filled with insulation, as standard.)
Do not buy a single wall (75mm or 90mm thickness, as offered by some companies) cabin, unless you intend to insulate either the interior or exterior of the wall. The reason these single-wall cabins get mould is due to the warm moist air inside the cabin coming in contact with the cold surface of the wall. The dampness settles on the wall and mould appears. Oftentimes, the mould only appears behind presses and other unseen spots, because the heating in the room warms the exposed walls, but the walls behind the presses remain cold, leading to mould forming.
Any house type can suffer from mould. The important thing is to keep your log home insulated and double-glazed while allowing air to circulate. Wood also happens to be naturally good at allowing air to circulate.
How do you maintain a log cabin?
The main element of Log cabin maintenance is the exterior “painting”. We talk about painting a log cabin, but actually, you need to use a solvent-based stain rather than paint on your log cabin. Paint is a sealant, and your log cabin timber needs to be able to breathe. Moisture is not good for wood, and painting a log cabin seals the surface and will trap any moisture inside your cabin. There are a number of different wood stain suppliers available.
Best exterior paint for log cabins
We highly recommend SIKKENS wood stains as the best exterior paint for log cabins. This is a Dutch product which is widely used and highly recommended. Their HLS Plus product is a solvent-based, highly translucent wood stain. Its low viscosity makes it ideal for use on bare timber.
Dulux is the distributor, and you should be able to get it in your local hardware store. Normally, they have a basic range available in-store, so ask behind the counter for the colour charts. They will probably have to order directly from the suppliers. They also recommend two coats of standard preservatives before any work is done, especially concentrating on any wood ends, where a lot of preservatives will be soaked in.
Treat your Log Cabin Exterior with Sikkens
A wide range of log cabin wood stain colours are available. The only problem with Sikkens is that they don’t offer cheap trial pots, so you will have to invest in a few of their smallest tins. But be sure that you do trials – the colour charts are not very accurate. Because the stain is translucent, the type/colour of your wood will affect the final colour of the building.
How often should I “paint” my log cabin?
First of all, you don’t paint your log cabin, you stain it. (See above). Depending on the location of the log cabin, and exposure to the elements (sunlight as well as harsher wind and rain) you will need to re-stain your log cabin every three or four years. Sikkens has a specific stain for UV protection, which can be used as one of the three coats required. You should apply this if your cabin is located in a sunny spot. Read their spec sheets carefully!
How Long will a Log cabin Last?
A good question! And the best answer we can give is that a log cabin will last a lifetime, as long as the wood is treated well. The picture below is of a 500-year-old timber-built house we saw in Brittany when on holidays over there.
We build our cabins so that they overhang the concrete base by 10mm all around. We also run a throat-ed rain sill all around the bottom of the cabin. In this way, water will never pool under the cabin. This is a crucial detail, and the most important one in ensuring the longevity of our log cabins.
Log Cabin Maintenance Checklist
What are the main things to check when maintaining your log cabin?
Stain the exterior every 3-4 years
Check that all walls are free from contact with soil/stones etc.
Ensure gutters are free from leaves/blockages and operating well.
Maintain mastic seals around windows.
Best exterior paint for log cabins
We highly recommend SIKKENS wood stains as the best exterior paint for log cabins. This is a Dutch product which is widely used and highly recommended. Their HLS Plus product is a solvent-based, highly translucent wood stain. Its low viscosity makes it ideal for use on bare timber.
Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus is a low-build satin basecoat and wood stain for most exterior woods. It can be used as both a basecoat and a finishing coat depending on the project you are doing.
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/…
It is resistant to UV, surface mould and algae, peeling and cracking. The wood grain remains visible and it can be over-coated with Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus.
It is an ideal product to use on softwood, hardwood, plywood, block board and particle board, such as cladding, fascias, architraves, timber frames, fences, and sheds.
Preparation
Wood to be treated with Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus should be clean, dry and free from surface dirt, debris and surface coatings such as paint or varnish.
Degrease any exposed bare timber surface by wiping with a cloth dampened in a suitable solvent.
The use of ‘knotting agents’ is not recommended with translucent finishes as they are not always fully effective in sealing in resin, the presence of knots is often highlighted and adhesion of coatings can be impaired.
When filling, be sure to use fillers specifically designed for use with timber. General or all-purpose fillers may not be suitable.
Applying Sikkens HLS Plus
Always do a test area before starting any project to test adhesion and final finish. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the tin at all times.
Ensure that Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus is stirred thoroughly before and periodically during application use to ensure a consistent finish.
Application temperature should not be below or exceed 5 – 30℃ and a relative humidity of 85%.
New timber
Where a superficial application of wood preservative to softwood and hardwood is deemed necessary, ensure that the wood preserver used does not contain any wax and has fully dried before applying Cetol HLS plus.
Note: Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus cannot be used on substrates which have had water-repellent wood preservatives or pre-treatments applied i.e. products that contain wax, oil or silicon.
Where possible, the first coat should be applied all around prior to fixing. Only use non-ferrous screws, nails and fixings. Denib using a fine-grade nylon abrasive pad or a fine-grade (P240 or finer) wet or dry silicon carbide abrasive paper, in the direction of the grain. Do not break through the surface coating. Take care to ensure that all sanding/denibbing dust has been removed from the surface prior to applying additional coats.
Note: Where any damage or deterioration has occurred as a result of exposure to the factory coating for longer than 3 months, affected areas should be thoroughly sanded back to a sound substrate.
Damaged or decayed timber
All damaged or decayed timber must be removed and replaced, cutting at least 25mm into sound timber. When splicing in new sections of timber, consideration should be given to the use of timber species whose natural durability is sufficient. Brush and apply two coats of a suitable wax-free wood preserver. Ensure timbers are thoroughly treated, especially any end grain sections, and are fully dry before splicing in. Secure with non-ferrous fixings and fill all voids surrounding the spliced-in area with a suitable exterior wood filler.
Apply 2 finishing coats of Sikkens HLS Plus. For best results, it is necessary to keep the interval between applications of these coats limited, not exceeding 1 month.
Depending on the condition of the finish, clean, degrease and sand thoroughly. Repair defects with Cetol HLS Plus in the appropriate colour and apply one full coat of Cetol HLS Plus, overall. Transparency Maintain the translucent appearance of Cetol HLS plus over a longer period. It is recommended to use Cetol Clearcoat LB or alternatively use lighter colours, 077 or 006 for maintenance applications.
Product Coverage
Coverage greatly depends on the wood species under treatment, the surface condition, the method of application and conditions during application. Under normal conditions, coverage will be between 10 to 14 square meters, On rough-sawn timber the coverage is significantly lower (e.g. 7 – 10 square meters).
Equipment Cleaning
Application brushes and equipment should be cleaned immediately after use with White Spirit.
Storage
Keep this product tightly sealed at all times and stored/transported in an upright position. Store in a dry place at temperatures between 5 – 30℃. The shelf life for this product is a minimum of 24 months in original and unopened packaging.
Drying Time
Sikkens HLS Plus is touch dry after 4 to 6 hours and recoat between 18 to 24 hours. Air temperature and humidity may affect drying times.
The only problem with Sikkens is that they don’t offer cheap trial pots, so you will have to invest in a few of their smallest tins. But be sure that you do trials – the colour charts are not very accurate. Because the stain is translucent, the type/colour of your wood will affect the final colour of the building.
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